Bistrot Bagatelle

Last year, Bistrot Bagatelle became another international high-end restaurant chain to open up shop in Dubai. But unlike many of its competitors, Bagatelle refrains from plonking down cookie-cutter franchises in cities where it hopes to make a quick buck. instead, Bagatelle takes the essence of its successful formula, and localises it at each new branch, creating a unique restaurant every time.

For example, Bagatelle New York is a cool, trendy city hang-out, responsible for popularising the concept of brunch in Manhattan. Meanwhile, in St. tropez, Bagatelle offers much more of a laid-back, beachside vibe. And here in Dubai, there’s something mightily opulent about the feel of Bagatelle, thanks partly to its location at the Fairmont Dubai.

However, the spirit of the original restaurant has still been preserved, meaning that, despite the luxurious place settings and lavish decorations, there isn’t a trace of stuffiness or high-mindedness. Diners come to Bagatelle for the cool, quirky atmosphere, and the fantastic food, and the Dubai branch delivers on both counts.

Indeed, a similar approach is taken to the menu. While there are mainstays that have made their way over from other branches, Bagatelle Dubai offers some of its own original dishes as well.

The idea is to feature Bagatelle signature dishes, alongside recipes influenced by local culture and creations from the executive chef.

in Dubai, the kitchen is run by Tim Newton, a classically trained chef who worked at one of the city’s most loved French restaurants, Le Petite Maison, for three years. Now, he’s running the show at Bagatelle, demonstrating a flair for accessible French cooking that both echoes the essence of the Bagatelle brand and offers something new.

That said, a visit to Bagatelle without sampling the international favourites would be something of a travesty. the Pizza a La truffle Noire (black truffle pizza) is an astonishingly good creation that is available at Bagatelles worldwide. Likewise, the Foie gras sliders, which come with veal bacon marmalade and truffle mayonnaise, are absolutely to die for. the waiting staff encourage embracing a sharing concept when ordering food, but you’ll want both of those dishes to yourself.

There are larger dishes that are better enjoyed shared. What’s more, the main menu features items that bring local ingredients into zesty French creations. The grilled Whole seabass with fennel confit, lemon and chermoula, is a classic example of this. The Linguini au Homard epicees, which features a whole josper-roasted spicy lobster, is also worth a look.

The classic items on the main menu are good, too. if you really want to indulge, there’s a 1.4 kg Veal rack, served with mustard and herb crust, spicy roasted potatoes and veal mustard jus—though ordering this is subject to availability. if you can’t get your hands on the veal, opt for the simple but beautifully executed Pan-seared tenderloin, served with raclette mash potato and bordelaise sauce.