Shirt Shift
The world of bespoke tailoring revolves around sharp suits, but it doesn’t have to end there. Virtuozity explores the world of bespoke shirt making.
IN THE WORLD OF bespoke tailoring, the hand-made suit is and probably always will be the default setting. Many people dream of getting a neatly cut suit perfectly measured to suit their particular build and shape, but few actually go through with it, opting instead for off-the-rack options from well-known retailers.
But whilst the status quo remains, the bespoke suit making business has seen a major location shift over recent years, moving from the traditional tailors of the old cities, to the mall-based big players looking for volume in what has always been a low volume industry.
Up until about five years ago, men’s tailoring was the preserve of Indian tailors based in the older parts of the Gulf cities.
It was a traditional style of service, with copious cups of chai and an old timeworn shop turning out very impressive bespoke suits.
The market has now shifted to include neatly designed men’s tailors, based in the high-end shopping malls, allowing men to pop in whilst shopping for off-the-rack general clothing. These stores featured comfy sofas, large dressing rooms and restaurant levels of service.
And yet, despite this shift, few men still look beyond the standard suit approach, which is a mistake. There’s a whole world out there of bespoke shirt making and, for many people, it’s something they’ll wear more often than their suit.
To find out how the process works, Virtuozity visited Ascots and Chapels in Dubai’s Marina Mall to try out bespoke shirt shopping. The company treats the shirt process in a similar manner to buying a highend luxury car.
You sit with the consultant to run through the available options, fabric and styles, all from the comfort of a classic leather sofa. But if anything, the choices available with bespoke shirts are as varied as a full suit.
When designing your shirts, you can opt for a variety of different cuffs. Then, of course, there are the collars, which again have a multitude of styles depending on your taste and usage.
Buttonholes and stitching also require a design decision and the colour of the stitching can be changed to provide a bit of contrast for the wearer.
For an extra touch of style, you can add your initials, stitched into the shirt.
The tailor can even make your watch wrist sleeve slightly bigger to accommodate your favourite watch; such is the level of attention to detail. The whole thing is recorded on a tick box-style sheet, which you sign for once done.
Ascots and Chapels have a three-stage process to its shirt making, which it calls the Enhanced Shirt Experience.
The first appointment allows the advisor to run through the process and the options available. They also take your measurements, which takes the well-trained tailor just seconds to note down.
Using those measurements the tailor will then create a rough shirt as a template.
The second appointment is for a fitting, giving the tailor the opportunity to ensure the measurements of the shirt template fit and that you, the customer, are happy.
At this point they can adjust the length of both the sleeves and the body of the shirt. The final stage is simply delivery, where the customer can either pick up the shirts (and try them on) or they can be delivered directly.
A package of three shirts costs AED 1,100, with a spare set of collars and cuffs, laundry tags, pocket squares and a pair of metal collar stiffeners included in the price.
If either starts to wear out, you can simply take them into the nearest branch and they’ll fit the spare ones free of cost.